Frequently Un-Asked Questions

Working with plumbers and other water filtration professionals can be tricky.  Mostly because of how complex the world of water filtration can be.  

For example, if you walked into a music store and said, “I want a guitar”, you’ll immediately get a bunch of questions. Beyond just “electric or acoustic” there’s questions about nylon vs steel strings, types and styles of pickups, neck width, etc etc.  And going by brands or model names isn’t going to help, because there are just so MANY options!

But never fear, The Right Filter is here to help!

(okay, not with guitars, just water filters ... but I have strong opinions about guitars if you’re curious!) 

After hearing from our supplier, here are some of the most common questions that plumbers get and what they wished you knew before you asked them.

Q: How do I get my water tested? 

A: This one may be the simplest to answer.  

Your two best options are:

  • TapScore (mytapscore.com) — User-friendly reports, straightforward process

  • National Testing Labs (watercheck.com) — More thorough, detailed results

Q: Which water filter should I use?

A: Oh, this one’s super common and probably the hardest to answer.  I know, I know, it seems like it would be easy.  But if you get an immediate answer, you can bet that plumber/pro is tired of getting into the weeds of the question and is just going to give you a ‘good enough’ answer.

To really answer the question, you’re going to need to give them some details. 

  • Where is the filter going?  Is it just an undersink filter, one big whole house system, or a little bit of both?

  • How much room is there for the installation? Space is a real issue and having rough measurements will help narrow down the options.

  • Is there a specific problem with the water? Is it a bad taste and/or odor?  Was a water test done and did it show any particular contaminants/concerns?

  • If it’s a whole house system, what fixtures are in the house? High flow shower heads, multiple bathrooms, and multiple sinks all change the size of the system you’ll need

Once you have these answers, take them to your local plumber/pro and it will immediately help them figure out if you’re auditioning for a string quartet or starting a punk band in your garage.

Wait, I mean, it will help them figure out (sigh) The Right Filter for you.

Q: What filter should I use for lead and/or other "forever chemicals"?

A: You’re gonna hate hearing this but the real answer is…it depends. 

Without specific data, providing a solution that works is impossible. Past the questions above, there’s also some addition issues to consider.

When dealing with lead, specifically, the type of technology varies based on the goal:

  • Reducing lead levels requires less featured (and lower cost) technology than complete elimination.

  • Without knowing the exact levels from a water test, you run the risk of getting an over-priced system and come away thinking you need a loan just so your water can’t double as a pencil.

The bottom line: Get the test results first. And also all the other information from the first question.

Once you have those, it should be a snap for any decent plumber/pro to help you find a high-performance, cost-effective filter.

Q: I want/don’t want a water softener. What should I do?
A: This is really more about assumptions.  Let me clarify what I mean…

All water softeners use ion-exchange, which requires something like sodium chloride (read: salt) or potassium chloride. "Salt-free" options are not softeners; they are scale inhibitors which work differently and deliver different results.

Simply put: softeners physically remove hard water minerals and scale inhibitors prevent those minerals from building up. 

Here’s how they compare:

FEATURES

WATER SOFTENER

SCALE INHIBITOR (SALT-FREE)

Benefit

Increased efficiency, longer life for plumbing, appliances

✔️

✔️

Skin, hair feel clean

✔️

Spotless fixtures, glassware

✔️

Technology

Removes hard water minerals (calcium and magnesium) from water

✔️

Hard water minerals less likely to accumulate in plumbing

✔️

Capability

High hardness level

✔️

Low hardness level

✔️

✔️

Features

Bypass valve (easy to service)

✔️

✔️*

Salt not required

✔️

Electricity not required

✔️

Drain not required

✔️

* Assuming tank-type system


The main information you need before asking/rejecting a water softener/scale inhibitor is: 

  • What is the actual hardness level?  You guessed it, you’ll need a water test for this. 

  • Do you care more about the feeling of cleaner water and spotless dishes, or are you more concerned with avoiding salt and dealing with electrical wires? 

Knowing these two bits of information will really make things a lot easier for your plumber/pro, and by extension, for you!

Q: I want a Reverse Osmosis (RO) system. What should I get?

A: Oof, that’s a doozy of a question.

See, RO systems are cash cows in the direct to consumer market. You’ll see more influencers hawking this stuff than green powders, sketchy supplements, and pyramid schemes, combined.

But, plumbers and pros don’t fall for all the hype and try to make sure they get you the thing you need, not just the thing you were convinced to buy.

RO systems vary based on a few factors:

  • Usage rate: How much filtered water do you actually need daily? This determines tank size or tankless.

  • Budget: RO ranges from $1,200-$3,200, depending on features

  • Installation space: Under-sink vs. whole-house are the choices

  • Water quality starting point: What contaminants are you filtering out?


Once you know those details, here are the leading brands recommended by our supplier: 

BEST FOR

BRAND & MODEL

NSF

GAL PER DAY

TANK SIZE

SQC CTGS**

MONITOR

ELECTRIC

Space Saving

3M RO301

Yes

19

2.2 gal

Yes

No

No

Dual Pre-Filter

3M RO401

Yes

19

2.2 gal

Yes

No

No

Permeate Pump

3M RO501

Yes

37

2.2 gal

Yes

No

Yes

Budget

Pentair RO-2550

Yes

20

3.0 gal

No

No

No

Remineralization

Atlas RE6075310

Yes

50

2.2 gal

No

No

No

PFAS Certified

North Star NSROPS

Yes

18

2.4 gal

Yes

No

No

Tankless

Pentair T600RO

Yes

396

No tank

Yes

Yes

Yes

** Sanitary Quick Change (SQC) Cartridges (CTGS)


The North Star NSROPS and the Pentair T600RO are active on The Right Filter website, but if you’re interested in the others, reach out and I’ll get you pricing and details on them.

Frequently Asked Questions

Under-sink filters connect to your cold water line and use various methods like activated carbon, reverse osmosis, or multi-stage filtration to remove impurities before the water reaches your faucet.

Depending on the filter type, they can banish chlorine, sediment, rust, lead, cysts, industrial pollutants, and sometimes even fluoride, bacteria, and viruses from your drinking water.

For most homeowners with basic plumbing skills and the provided instructions, installing an under-sink filter is usually a manageable DIY project. But, depending on your situation, a professional might be your best bet.

As a rough estimate an undersink filter installation might cost you between $200 - $800, depending on your sink and local labor costs.

The frequency depends on your water usage and quality, but most cartridges need replacing every 6 months to a year.

Some filtration systems can impact your water flow, so if you're dealing with low water flow, it's worth checking if a particular model might exacerbate the issue.

In the US, standard kitchen water flow should be between 2-3 GPM but this can be affected by water pressure in your neighborhood or even in your house.  The filters we carry go from 1.8 GPM (EPWPFF) to 2.5 GPM (3MFF100) so if there is any flow impact, it’ll be negligible.

Under-sink filters come in various sizes, so measure your available cabinet space beforehand to ensure you can accommodate the unit.

Here’s a breakdown of the space required for the models we carry:

  • 3MFF100 - Height: 19 1/8”, Width: 4.5", Depth: 4.5” 
  • EF-1500 - Height: 15", Width: 5", Depth: 5" 
  • EF-3000 - Height: 20", Width: 5", Depth: 5" 
  • EF-6000 - Height: 22", Width: 5", Depth: 5" 
  • EPWPFF - Height: 16", Width: 4", Depth: 3-1/2"

While most under-sink filters are designed to work with standard sinks and faucets, it's wise to verify compatibility if you have a non-traditional setup to avoid any installation hiccups.  

The best way to do that is to discuss it with the plumber who installed the non-traditional setup. The next best thing is to contact us.

If you’re a renter, your best bet is to discuss it with your landlord or property manager.  Many apartment buildings have begun to allow renters to install water filtration systems, however they may require that you use their plumbers, for insurance reasons.

A pitcher filter is a great first step but they cannot compare to an undersink filter.  A pitcher filter uses gravity to push the water through, but an undersink filter has the full force of the water coming from your pipes.  The additional force allows more contaminants to be removed in less time and for less money.

You could, and many people do.  There’s nothing wrong, inherently, with bottled water.  However, science is still learning how micro and nano plastics impact on human health.  And every time you break those little seals on a plastic bottle of water and hold it to your lips, you’re drinking micro and nano plastics.

At The Right Filter, we’d rather you find a water filter that makes the switch away from plastic bottled water easier.  Even if that filter is a pitcher filter or a filter from another company.

This is a common question and a little difficult to answer easily.

First, Berkey filters are passive gravity systems.  In a lot of ways, they are an upgraded pitcher filter.  But without the force of water pressure you get from an undersink filter, they simply cannot filter water at the same rate or the same level of purity.

On the other side of the discussion, there are the reverse osmosis systems, from Waterdrop and other companies.  Reverse osmosis (RO) systems are the most aggressive filtration technology that exist.  They strip everything out of water, leaving only H2O molecules.  Not just chlorine and arsenic, but also salt and iron.  As a result, RO systems create the purest water possible.

While this is great for labs and scientific endeavors, it can be lethal to certain human beings in rare cases.  The human body requires minerals, like salt, in the water we drink.  Hydration salts, like those used by athletes who are concerned about dehydration, are primarily salt, sugar, and potassium.  In fact, most RO systems come with remineralization liquids or additives.

So, while there’s nothing wrong with these well-known brands and solutions, they can be “not enough” or “too much”.